Wednesday, September 17, 2025
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The Healing Power of Nature

Talking on BBC’s Radio 4 recently, wildlife photographer, Paul Williams, who suffered debilitating mental health problems after a career in the army and the police force, talked about his experience looking for help through the NHS. Despite receiving therapy assistance through his employers after a traumatic incident as a police officer, he knew he needed continued treatment to help him deal with what had been diagnosed as Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD).

After an initial assessment and the knowledge that at last his problems were being dealt with, he had to wait a further seven to eight weeks before his follow up appointment. This gap in the system was long enough for him to make a ‘serious attempt’ on his life. ‘Expectations are raised’ he explained. So that if a follow-up appointment is cancelled or even delayed ‘your hopes are dashed and you are left in almost a worse position.’

David Clarke, NHS England’s Clinical Director, talking on the same programme, pointed out that although treatment gaps are far too long; this is an advance from ten years ago. Then the average time it took for an initial appointment was closer to 18 months. He said the NHS hopes to recruit and train another 4,000 psychological therapists by 2024.

Paul Williams’ journey started with a sixteen-year career in the military. Much of that time was spent as an army physical training instructor. After leaving the military he embarked on a completely different career direction and gained a First Class honours degree in Clinical Mental Health nursing, working as a senior mental health specialist in the NHS. However, when he turned 40 he decided to join the police force and his PTSD developed after he had defended four people against a mentally ill, samurai sword-wielding woman at Bournemouth police station. Following this traumatic event, he became acutely unwell and attempted suicide three times before experiencing a significant breakthrough with a new psychotherapy treatment.

Today, thanks to a combination of advances in treatment and his own determination—partly cultivated from strength of will and discipline developed through his military training – he has been able to move beyond his illness and is enjoying a new career as a landscape photographer.

Already an amateur photographer, Paul picked up his camera again to give him an incentive to get out. Recounting his experience in a new book Wildlife Photography – saving my life one frame at a time, Paul explains the background to his illness and the journey he took to build self-esteem and purpose in his life again. He talks of how wandering through often deserted country paths and fields near his home in Dorset became a blueprint that continues to shape his life. He remembers the joy of discovering hares and a den of foxes living nearby and explained how days spent alone watching wildlife became his quality time; extended moments of meditation in the peaceful surrounds of nature. He practised the Mindfulness discipline of ‘being in the moment without intrusion from thoughts about the past or the future.’

Today, although still scarred by the struggle since his illness began in 2010, Paul looks back on what has happened as a chapter in the book of his life. Wildlife Photography – saving my life one frame at a time is described by Chris Packham as ‘a brutally honest visual journey … uplifting and beautiful’ and Paul’s photographs have won many awards. He looks to the future from a platform of being glad to have survived—and to be alive. He still needs to take time out from human contact for days at a time but for those of us that enjoy his photographs, the results are a benefit that we can all appreciate.

 

Wildlife Photography – saving my life one frame at a time is published by Hubble & Hattie, an imprint of Veloce Publishing Ltd,

RRP: £29.99.

People in Food and drink – Geraldine Baker

Twelve years ago Geraldine and John Baker went to one of their local pubs on a Sunday for a drink. Whilst supping over their beverages it came to light the pub was for sale. And so, they decided on a complete career change, duly becoming joint Landlords of The Ropemakers in Bridport. John claims, grinning, it’s his job to get people through the door and Geraldine’s to make sure they get served. The couple have made a great success of the pub, winning a plethora of awards over the years, weaving themselves into the very heart of Bridport’s community.

Geraldine grew up in Bridport. She worked in customer support and had a number of jobs waiting tables before taking on the pub, so had a lot of experience dealing with people. Passionate about food, Geraldine enthuses about the suppliers they use. Originally she devised a map of Dorset to show how local all their suppliers were, but happily found she had to make it solely of Bridport, with a couple of exceptions. Offering a monthly cheese club, weekly quiz nights and three nights of live music each week, Geraldine doesn’t have much time to sit down. A classically trained singer herself, punters occasionally get the added benefit of hearing her sing during the open mic night. As the couple live above the pub it is easy enough to pop down whenever they need to help with the evening’s entertainment.

Taking advantage of having an in-house chef, the couple often have Sunday roast in the pub. However, most nights it will be either Geraldine or John cooking upstairs, as they both enjoy dabbling in a variety of culinary influences. On Geraldine’s day off she and John will generally either go for a walk or pop out on the bus somewhere sampling other food haunts. They know the area intimately, as over the years they have walked pretty much every footpath together, armed with a packed lunch, using the time to brainstorm new ideas for the pub.

Still brimming with enthusiasm for what they have achieved, Geraldine admits that she and John couldn’t run the establishment without their loyal team of staff. Ensuring she takes life just a little easier after recovering from breast cancer, and with John’s Parkinsons a factor in their lives, they both enjoy showing what can be done, no matter what presents itself along the way.

Nicola Kathrens

‘Once upon a time I moved from Bolton in Manchester, with Mum and Dad and my two sisters Mand and Joo Joo, to Weymouth, when I was six. Dad had got a job as a customs officer at the then working ports of Portland and Weymouth. My first memory of that move was waiting on the beach while Dad went to get the keys of our new home on Roman Road, with its green gloss-painted bathroom.

I was sent to St Augustine’s Catholic Primary School along with my two sisters, and it’s fair to say that from the moment I stepped over the threshold of the school the nuns made it their mission to humiliate and intimidate me. Thankfully life at home in so many ways was an idyllic one. Under the care-free spirited eye of Mum we were allowed to spread our wings and find our own adventures. But there was always a fear lurking in the background for me in those early school days—monster nuns waiting to bite me. Mother finally recognised that something was terribly wrong, and being my champion, walked into the school one day, fought the beasts and slayed them dead (metaphorically speaking). A couple of years later I managed to pass my eleven plus and got a place at the Dorchester Grammar School for Girls. I never really enjoyed it but at least there weren’t any scary nuns hanging around in the corridors. I made loads of friends, was class clown, “ink monitor”, and form captain. Most of our free time was spent mucking about on the beach, playing in the park, riding bikes, sitting on walls chatting up the boys and caring about nothing in particular. An idyllic dream.

Around the third year of grammar school a careers officer came to tell us all what career they had in mind for us, given our subject choices and results. In my private delusional reality I had myself down to be a journalist, but I was advised that the only expectation they had of me was a dental nurse or a Wren. I can only liken this news as to being sharply and unexpectedly slapped across the face. Luckily for me however a peripatetic English teacher called Miss Hawkins came to my rescue. She recognised that I had a skill for English but declared I showed no aptitude for discipline or concentration. However she promised me that if I agreed to act in a play things might turn out in my favour. The play was Toad of Toad Hall and she wanted me to play TOAD! Oh honestly! I managed two detentions before I finally cracked and agreed to do it.

I don’t really remember anything about the show as I was catatonic with fear, but at the end of the prize-giving ceremony that year the headmistress announced that there was to be a special one-time award for an outstanding achievement. She held up a little silver cup in front of four hundred girls and announced to the whole school that it was for me. The little cup had my name on it. And the cheer was a loud one.

I left grammar school in the sixth form to do my A levels at the technical college. No school uniform and boys in the classes—brilliant fun. I studied for A levels in History, English and Sociology, as well as taking drama and public speaking exams. I also joined the merchant navy and got myself a job on the Sealink ferries sailing from Weymouth to the Channel Islands and Cherbourg. The hours were gruelling. 24 hours on board ship, 24 off, with little or no sleep. But the pay was brilliant. I had never had so much money. I started out pouring teas in the cafe and worked my way up to deck stewardess—not as glamorous as it sounds as most of the time I was unplugging sinks full of sick with a wire coat hanger. From there I went on to be the officers’ stewardess and became very adept at silver service in gale force seas. I wanted to go on to work on the QE2, and very nearly did, but was dissuaded by Pancho, the purser, who thought I should to go to drama school to carry on with my education. He told me to go for an audition, and if it didn’t work out I could always go back to sea. I was successful, and studied for three years at the Horniman Theatre School in Manchester. I never went back to sea.

Immediately college was over I went to London where the streets I was told were paved with gold and opportunity. And for the next fifteen years I didn’t stop working as an actress. I performed with companies that took award-winning theatre onto stages, in parks, schools, community centres and theatres nationally and internationally. I didn’t sleep much through those years. I lived on adrenaline, alcohol, and applause. There was so much to do. If I wasn’t performing, I was rehearsing a new play and learning the lines, or reading through a new script, or auditioning for a new role, or sometimes all of the above at the same time. On one occasion I was given the lead part (having spent three weeks learning the lines for another role) 48 hours before the show went live. I was told by the director to go home, come back twenty four hours later, and be off the book. I managed to learn the lines, but had no idea which scene followed which. My father died at the beginning of rehearsals for one show, and after the first night curtain came down, I drove from London to Weymouth, stayed up all night with my brother, read at the funeral, then drove back to London and was on stage for 7.30pm the following day playing to a full house. The show must go on as they say. After fifteen years I was knackered. I didn’t know who I was. I was just a mishmash of all the characters I had ever played on stage.

My sister in the meantime had had her daughter Taylor Rose and had moved from London to the seaside here in Lyme Regis. She was pregnant with her second child Saul Augustin and that’s when I had my epiphany. I wanted to go and live by the sea too, and be a day to day Aunty. I wanted to be near the children, watch them grow up and be a part of their lives. So seemingly overnight I decided to leave the life I had created for myself. I detonated it under the cover of darkness, having packed everything I could possibly fit alongside my two cats in my Mini, and as I watched my old life burn in the rear view mirror I vowed to myself I would never work for anyone else ever again. It was time to write a new script, play a new role.

Arriving in Lyme Regis I worked part time in a wonderful shop called Lovegrove, which sold work made by local artists. Realistically I wasn’t making ends meet, so I decided to give an old idea a try, to make and then sell a collection of jackets and jumpers using recycled knitwear. Having never sewn or made anything before, the idea was a preposterous one, but it just seemed to make creative sense to me. So screwing up my courage I went to a jumble sale with £20 to spend, bought a few jumpers, cardigans, and sweatshirts, and put a collection together. I took them down to Hannah Lovegrove’s shop and asked her if she would sell them for me. Within a couple of weeks she had sold the whole lot and I had a hundred pounds in my back pocket. That was twenty years ago, and I am so proud to be an independent maker and I love what I do to earn myself a living. The business journey has been a little bumpy at times, but what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger as the old adage goes. Having nearly lost everything, I had to decide whether to give up or go back to my knitwear business, and I decided it would be churlish of me not to give the knitwear another try. Thanks to Hannah Lovegrove, for the last 9 years I have had a gorgeous studio shop in Mr Pattimores old butchers shop on Coombe Street. Thank you Hannah Lovegrove, you were twice my champion. And I am still making, still designing, and still selling. I even performed as Prospera in the Andrew Rattenbury written community production The Tempest of Lyme at the Marine Theatre in 2016. Based on Shakespeare’s Tempest it was a sell-out success and won a National outstanding achievement award—a little silver cup.’

January in the Garden

A new decade has begun and the shortest day of the year has passed so the hours of daylight will be on the increase. Plants will notice the lengthening days and subtly begin to react, thanks to complex hormonal processes and little understood tropisms, but as far as active gardening tasks are concerned it’s a quiet time of year.

As ever it pays to get all bare-rooted plants planted whenever soil and weather conditions allow. The autumn was very wet which may have held up a lot of the necessary lifting operations, that the supplying nurseries need to undertake before despatching orders, so there could be a backlog of orders even if the planting conditions are ideal.

As long as the ground is not totally waterlogged, or frozen solid, then it’s always better to plant bare-root plants rather than have them sitting around. Having said that, if an order does arrive at an inconvenient time, and you have no choice but to heel the plants in temporarily, there’s no need to panic as there are still a good three months of winter left in which to complete the task.

The ‘dormant season’ is the best time to undertake any major tree work and reorganising of the garden structure while it is laid bare. Despite having a basic chainsawing certificate, I am not a fan of attempting tree surgery myself—I’ve seen too many gardeners over the years who have fallen victim to self-inflicted chainsaw injuries. Anything that cannot be tackled by hand, it’s amazing how much can be achieved with a sharp pruning saw, is best left to a professional.

A qualified tree surgeon will know precisely how to fell a tree, or perform such operations as crown thinning, without damaging surrounding plants or property. In addition they will be insured for any mishaps which might occur and they should have all the necessary equipment required to tidy everything up afterwards and, if requested, log up all the timber suitable for firewood.

Planning ahead is the order of the day and, given that grass will not be actively growing, while average temperatures are below 7ºC or so, getting the mower, or any other garden machinery, serviced makes good sense. If you can tackle it yourself, while there’s no urgency, it will save a deal of money but I like the peace of mind afforded by relying on a professional garden machinery workshop to do the necessary work.

In total contrast to macho machinery maintenance; how about getting ahead by seed sowing (or seed ordering if you fancy a nice sit down, in front of the fire, surrounded by seed catalogues)? Plants which require a long growing season, especially the heat-loving bedding plants, need a helping hand to get them germinated, and therefore growing, at this cold time of year. Small quantities can be raised in a bright room. Mass sowings will require a lot more space, preferably a heated greenhouse, as the little plants soon take up a lot of room as they get potted on to larger and larger pots.

The over 20ºC required for germination can be provide in a heated propagator but once pricked out they still need heat, not to mention good light, if they are not to be subjected to a shock which could kill them or severely check their growth. It’s worth raising your own if you have the facilities, or want to grow varieties that are not widely available, but with the huge range now available as ‘plug plants’, or ‘garden ready’ after the frosts have passed, you may prefer to let the commercial suppliers carry the risk getting them from seed to small plant.

Less delicate, and therefore suited to almost any gardener, are sweet peas. These are so hardy that it’s possible to sow them in November and overwinter them, with a little protection, as young plants. That will get them off to a really early start but in reality you won’t lose out much by sowing them now. On a windowsill, or in glazed porch, they will make good size plants, ready for planting in their final garden positions, by the spring. The variety available from seed suppliers is huge, compared to those supplied as young plants in the spring, so it really is worth growing them yourself.

Sweet peas will require a structure, most easily erected using 8-10 foot bamboo canes and garden twine, so it’s worth considering where this can be accommodated before committing to growing them. On the subject of structures, in the same way that the denuded garden in winter exposes required tree and shrub maintenance, it’s also the best time to check on other structural elements like plant supports and ties.

The autumn winds, especially those that occurred before all the leaves were down, may have loosened or broken tree ties and the stakes that they are attached to. In some cases you may find that the supported specimen no longer needs to be attached to a stake, if it’s sufficiently well established, and the stake can be safely removed. Sometimes only the tie needs to be replaced, possibly with a stronger one, but if the specimen has grown to a size disproportionate to the orginal stake, very small plants may originally have been supplied with a bamboo cane, you may have to drive in a larger stake and attach a similarly ‘beefier’ plant tie.

It is important that the length of stake protruding above the point of attachment, of the tie to the stem of the plant, is kept to a minimum because, in very windy conditions, even a supported tree or shrub will sway around. If more than an inch or two of stake is left, above the attachment point, then there is a danger that the swaying of the stem will cause it to rub against the protruding stake and damage it. Similarly the plant tie needs to be tight enough to support the plant but not so tight that the stem is constricted.

Rubber tree ties are generally supplied with a block that needs to be placed between the stem, or trunk, of the tree / shrub and the stake that the tie is attached to. Rubbery, or expandable, ties are vital, never use wire or other ‘garotting’ material, so that the growing plant is not constricted in any way. Old tights are often recommended, as emergency ties if nothing else is available. If you have to use heavy gauge wire, such as when an established specimen needs to be pulled upright having been blown over, then thread the wire through a length of old hosepipe, where it is in contact with the trunk, so that it cannot cut into the bark or chafe against it.

That should be enough to ease you into the New Year. I think I’ll leave rose pruning, and the like, until next month at least—no point in freezing to death if you don’t have to!

 

I Found Ernest Hemingway in my Family Tree

Author Ernest Hemingway

Delving into family history has proved a rich seam for Margery Hookings. Her DNA experience confirmed what she already thought, but it was a message out of the blue which proved the most exciting.

 

I’ve been indulging myself while home alone by watching Ant and Dec’s DNA Journey on catch-up on ITV.

Not very highbrow, I know, but nonetheless very interesting.

Like the BBC’s hugely successful Who Do You Think You Are, this two-part programme’s premise is the stories found by celebrities when delving into their family histories.

Anthony McPartlin and Declan Donnelly are a broadcasting phenomenon, winning lots of awards and plaudits over the years. They’ve come a long way since meeting as teenagers in Byker Grove, the children’s television series aired between 1989 and 2006. I rather like them.

Their DNA journey—and I haven’t watched the second episode yet but I have an inkling what might happen—takes them on a fascinating journey which includes Ireland. A notable scene had Ant visiting a pub where he met half a village of his previously unknown ‘cousins’ with whom he shares DNA. The bar bill cost more than 600 euros.

My own DNA research, which I wrote about in the Marshwood Vale Magazine last autumn, failed to yield any exotic blood—I was hoping the Grigg side might throw up some Romany ancestry. My DNA calculated that I’m 87 per cent British (and mostly Westcountry), seven per cent Irish and Scottish, five per cent Norwegian and one per cent Swedish.

What it has done is help flesh out the family tree on the Ancestry website, thanks to previously unknown relatives, who have also had their DNA tested, putting their trees online. Backed up by paperwork, I now know I am a south Somerset girl through and through, as far back as 1576 in South Petherton.

And I was thrilled to discover that on my mother’s side, my roots go back to the village where I’ve lived in Dorset for almost the last twenty years. It’s incredible to think my ninth great-grandfather was born here in about 1640 and is probably buried here too. If only I could find his grave.

Through the magic of the internet, I have also found I am linked to one of the 20th century’s greatest writers. The eureka moment came a little while ago by way of a Facebook message out of the blue from a chap in Canada.

We didn’t know each other but I’d written something on my blog about my paternal grandfather, William Percy Withers, a farmer and poet who was born in 1894 at Upper Milton Farm, near Wells. He took up a Somerset County Council farm tenancy in Donyatt, near Ilminster, after the First World War.

A prolific poet, writing about his war experiences with the North Somerset Yeomanry, life on the farm and whimsical things that took his fancy, my grandfather died in 1970. I turned his memoirs into a book, Destination Unknown.

The blog post attracted the interest of a man from Halifax, Nova Scotia, who contacted me to find out if it was the same Percy in his own family tree.

He gave me some details and I was able to confirm that, yes, he and I were distant cousins. He responded immediately, giving me more information about the family. His connection to my grandfather was through Percy’s mother, Harriet Mabel Churchill Oxley.

‘Harriet was the daughter of Joseph Clarke Oxley and Harriet Churchill,’ he told me. ‘Harriet Churchill’s parents were John Stanton Churchill and Harriet Hancock. Harriet Hancock is the sister to my third great-grandfather, Thomas Tyley Hancock.’

And then he mentioned a little aside about one of the greatest American novelists of the 20th century.

Thanks to my mother, I had a pretty good idea of who was sitting up in the branches of my family tree. There had never been anyone famous, although mum discovered we are directly descended from William Crabb, a gentleman of Ashill, who fought against the parliamentary forces in the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685.

If I’d lived in Victorian times, what my new cousin said next would have sent me reaching for the smelling salts.

He told me: ‘I have quite a bit of information on the Churchills and Hancocks. I notice that you are a writer. Harriet Hancock’s brother, Alexander, was the great-grandfather to writer Ernest Hemingway. It must be genetic. LOL…..nice to meet you!’

So my third great-grandmother, Harriet Hancock, and Ernest Hemingway’s great-grandfather, Alexander Hancock, were brother and sister, in a family of 14 children from Wedmore, Somerset.

Alexander was the maternal grandfather of Grace Hall, Ernest Hemingway’s mother.

According to an interview in 2018 with Hemingway’s nephew, the late John Sanford, for the online Hemingway Project, Alexander Hancock, was a sea captain and part-owner of the three-masted barque, Elizabeth of Bristol. Captain Hancock sailed his ship from England in 1853 to Melbourne, Australia with a load of immigrants seeking gold.

‘Also on board were Hancock’s three young children who had lost their mother in a train accident just days before departure. One of those children was Grace’s mother, Caroline Hancock (Hall), who travelled from Australia to Panama with her father, sister and brother, crossed the isthmus on mule-back and took passage to America.’

From the East Coast, the family took trains to Dyersville, Iowa, where they had a relative and where Captain Hancock became the town’s postmaster. He died on 12 Apr 1864, aged 49.

My research tells me that Hancock had married Caroline Sydes in London on 27 March 1841. She was born in Liverpool in 1817 and died on 9 January 1853 in South Wales.

In 1978, John Sanford took his family on a 10,000-mile trip by sailboat.

He told the Hemingway Project: ‘When I drove East to start the voyage, I stopped in Dyersville, Iowa and found the grave of Captain Alexander Hancock in a lonely, windswept cemetery. I had an imaginary conversation with him and felt as if his spirit was also with me at many difficult places during the voyage.’

I can’t quite stretch to visiting Iowa but a visit to Wedmore must surely be on my list of places to go in 2020.

 For information about researching your family history, contact the Somerset & Dorset Family History Society at sdfhs.org

 

Ding Dong Merrily on High

English Church bells are unique. Bridport is the home of one of only three bell hanging companies in the UK and Christopher Roper has been to visit them.

 

No sound is more evocative of the English Countryside than the pealing of church bells on a Sunday Morning, and it is distinctively English, with some 6,000 rings of bells in English Parish churches, and fewer than a thousand more in the rest of the world, generally in places where English bell ringers have taken their art. Of course, bells can be heard in other countries, all over the world, but English bells are, uniquely, hung on wheels, with ropes that hang down into a chamber in the Church tower, where the band of ringers stand. When ready to ring, the bell is upside down, its mouth facing upwards, and unlike bells that simply swing from side to side, the bell ringer in England can control the speed of the bell’s movement through a full circle, ringing both on the upstroke and the down.

Why this style of bell ringing, with its combinatorial musicality, took root in England during the 150 years following dissolution of the Monasteries and the Reformation is a bit of a mystery, but we know that the art of change ringing began in Norwich at the church of St.Peter Mancroft, and quickly spread to London, and from there across England. With the precipitous decline in church attendance, is it possible that the music of the bells is also threatened? Are young bell ringers learning the ancient skills? My neighbour, Mark Symonds, who is Tower Captain of Whitchurch Canonicorum, showed me the ringing sequences on his mobile phone, which suggested that it was accessible to the digital generation. He started ringing when he was about 14 and one of his uncles said, “You’re coming ringing tonight,” and that was it. Such recruitment methods might not work today, but bell ringing does still run in families.

In order to discover more, I visited Nicholson’s Engineering in Bridport, one of only three bell hanging companies in the U.K. Andrew Nicholson, the Company’s founder and Managing Director, learned his mechanical engineering skills as a school leaver in Bridport’s net and ropemaking industry, but he is also a classical musician, trained at the Royal College of Music, and played in different symphony orchestras as a trombonist, before leaving the full time music business and eventually turning full-time to bell hanging more than 30 years ago. How did that come about?

“By accident, really. I was a lapsed bell ringer and was in Bridport church when the clapper of the tenor bell broke. I thought, ‘I could mend that’.” And that was the seed of Nicholson Engineering, which operates today from a building which used to house generators to supply Bridport with electricity until the National Grid’s soviet-style pylons marched across the Marshwood Vale in the middle of the last century. It’s quite striking how Waterworks and Power Stations from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries were built to look like pagan temples or cathedrals, so the repurposing of Bridport’s former power station as a multi-skilled servicing centre for church bells seems quite appropriate.

Multiple and vanishing skills are required. A joiner painstakingly builds the wheels that swing the bells from seasoned English oak and ash. Each bell is bolted to the wheel via a kind of metal yoke, called a headstock, which fits across the top of the bell. That requires a blacksmith and a forge, and sure enough Allan Brittan is working away over glowing coals. Although Nicholson’s do not actually cast bells in Bridport, they do practically everything else, including designing and the tuning of the bells, which is determined by the thickness of the metal around the mouth and at the point the clapper strikes the bell. When the Whitechapel Bell Foundry (at 450 years, Britain’s oldest manufacturing company) tragically closed in 2017, its tuning machines were acquired by Nicholson’s. The tuning used to be calibrated manually, using a set of tuning forks, but is now measured electronically although the human ear is still the final arbiter.

The best material for bell clappers is wrought iron and this allowed Andrew to simply join the heated pieces of the broken clapper. However, no wrought iron has been produced in commercial quantities in this country since 1979, and when people talk about ‘new’ wrought iron gates, for example, they are generally made of mild steel. So, wherever possible, Nicholson’s save scrap wrought iron and recycle it. The virtue of wrought iron is that it is low in carbon and other impurities and therefore malleable. Returning to the question of the health of bell ringing today, I asked Andrew about both the art and the industry. He was quite optimistic on both counts.

Nicholson’s is growing and employs twelve people and between 25% and 30% of their work is for export. On the day I interviewed him in August, he was getting ready to go to Samoa, where he was designing an installation of bells for a new Roman Catholic Church, not an English-style Ring of Bells, but using second-hand bells that Nicholson’s were shipping from England. Much of their work involves the refurbishment and reinstallation of rings of bells, and villages and towns still manage to raise the considerable sums required to strengthen frames, replace wheels, and rehang the bells, which can weigh several tons. Milestone dates like the Millennium or a Coronation can be relied upon to stimulate interest and bring in new business. The largest bell in England is the Olympic Bell, weighing 23 tons, which is the largest harmonically tuned bell in the world, and was cast for the 2012 Olympic Games in London. It was designed by Whitechapel, but cast in the Netherlands.

Andrew is a member of the Lyme Regis band of bell ringers, and says that they have as strong a band of ringers as they have had over the years he has been ringing, with the youngest still a teenager. “If you can drive a car, you can learn to ring,” he said, adding that it helped to have good concentration and a sense of rhythm. Not all ringers are members of the Church of England, though there is a necessary link to the calendar of church services, and a readiness to be available for weddings and other special occasions. For all our sakes, we must hope young ringers continue to be attracted to this ancient art.

Mapperton Moments – John Montagu

John Montagu kept a diary when he first realised his father was affected by Dementia. Now, more than 30 years later he has published his observations of the challenges faced trying to secure the future of Mapperton against a backdrop of difficult times. He talked to Fergus Byrne.

 

John Montagu is distracted by kittens. When I arrive to talk with him about his new book, Mapperton Moments, the 11th Earl of Sandwich pops his head out of the window to warn me to be careful coming in the door in case some new arrivals make a break for the dangerous outdoors. We do the ‘shut the door quickly before the kittens get out’ dance as two adorable furry balls of energy tumble over each other trying to climb up his dangling scarf.

As an introduction, it’s a pleasant distraction from the subject of the book I’ve come to talk about. It is a diary covering the last eight and a half years of the life of his father Victor Montagu, Viscount Hinchingbrooke, the 10th Earl of Sandwich. The book covers the years during which the former MP was slowly gripped by Alzheimer’s disease.

Mapperton Moments is a touching and funny—though at times painful—memoir. It not only gives a fascinating insight into the realities of the day-to-day running of a crumbling country manor, but it is also a keen observation of the challenges that accompany the slow decline of a powerful presence. John’s father ‘Hinch’ was a long-standing MP for South Dorset, elected in no less than five general elections. President of the Anti-Common Market League from 1962 to 1984, he was also a member of the Conservative Monday Club which was initially founded to correct a perceived Tory swing toward liberalism. A powerful presence in political life, Victor Montagu also wielded his influence at home, sometimes with devastating consequences. It is the last years and the impact on those closest to him during this time that is laid bare on the pages of his eldest son John’s memoir.

For John, the writing was a therapy that he described in the book as ‘the therapy of the computer’—although the process had begun in longhand and moved through a range of technologies before finally being edited on a computer in recent years. He also described  it as a ‘fairly accurate thermometer’ of how whatever genuine affection he had for his father in the past had been eroded by the time spent dealing with the disease. There were times in the process where he found himself talking to the page. ‘I could only deal with it by writing’ he said. ‘That was a way out of it. It was so exasperating. I thought  I must tell somebody.’

One of the many difficulties included the feeling of alienation. When you live with someone you see changes every day, whereas those that make occasional visits are often blissfully unaware of the frustration and loneliness of dealing with such painful and slow transformation. John explains: ‘There were four or five years where he was ostensibly an ordinary person living an ordinary life. For everybody else, they only had to say one thing like “Hello Hinch”, or whatever, and it would keep him on his traditional route.’

It’s a recurring theme. ‘How little even close friends and family seem to understand’ John writes after complaints that he took his father home too early from a drinks party when it had been at his father’s insistence. Talking about it later his frustration is still raw. ‘That’s the other fascinating thing about looking after the elderly’ he says. ‘It’s the perceptions of being in the home and the perceptions of being outside. You stare at people as if you can’t believe they haven’t realised what’s going on and they’re encouraging you and helping you—they’re the enemy in a sense.’

Day-to-day life at Mapperton was the constant struggle to keep ahead of the elements and included a perpetual redoubling of efforts to find ever more creative ways to fund the maintenance of the estate. However, the other battle was the need to monitor his father’s activities. John recalls Hinch’s insistence on near-daily visits to the bank in Beaminster, on one occasion proffering a £10 note to the cashier and asking her to give him £30. These moments were at times amusing but also endlessly frustrating and painful. They were a long step beyond just forgetting close family names.

Whilst winter frosts meant constant visits from local plumbing company Tolmans, Hinch also developed a habit of pushing down the needle on his gramophone to try to increase the volume requiring repeated visits by an electrician to fix it at a cost of £10 for each call out—a not insubstantial sum in 1987. John remembers wavering between wanting to keep his father fully informed about activities in the family and on the estate and the worry about the ‘ghastly sequences and often irrational thought processes’ that would inevitably follow. Hinch developed a habit of raiding the garden’s honesty box and eventual concern for the welfare of others resulted in him being deprived of his car. Occasional falls and an insistence that he hadn’t been to places for 30 years—although he may have been there a week previously—left giant holes in conversations that once might have been enlightening and pleasant. Such conversations became ‘not occasional but continuous’ writes John.

As decline became less gradual there were moments where hiding behind doors rather than engaging with his father became the easier choice. Hinch took to drinking vodka in the morning, going to bed after lunch and then waking at dinner time and demanding breakfast. ‘He was rather one to glare at you when you went into the room’ recalls John, although he remembers that  the sweetest smile sometimes replaced the glare. ‘They would sometimes cross over and you would get both of them in the same day—fretting over the marmalade or something. There were times when we couldn’t bear to sit in the dining room. Then you’d start hiding. That is the reality. I was never frightened or anything like that, but I certainly would avoid a lot. I wouldn’t want the confrontation. That’s where Caroline comes in because she was able to stop him.’

The daily grind of trying to get him back to bed after he had risen at 4 or 5 in the morning and then not getting back to sleep was endlessly wearing . In time John confides desperate descriptions to his diary with the observation that they may be a little over the top ‘but you sometimes have to look over the top to see things in perspective.’

Rest eventually came with the first visit to a care home in the New Forest. John writes about how the journey included mile after mile of making up answers to the “where are we going” question, ‘like the witches in fairy tales, coaxing the children deeper into the wilderness.’ Once there Hinch packed his suitcase daily explaining to staff that he had enjoyed a lovely holiday but was ready to go home now.

Anyone who has experienced the mental agony of dealing with a loved one with Alzheimer’s will recognise the conflicting emotions that come with the experience. Residual guilt at the resentment of the person one loved is sometimes overcome by the conviction that the one suffering from the disease is not the person they once knew.

John Montagu’s reflections show the deep warmth and compassion of the writer and at times affection for the man that played such a significant role in his life. He tells me about skiing holidays as a young boy and exciting trips such as visiting East Germany with his father and the MP Richard Crossman. ‘We visited the parliament and they all clapped the English MPs coming for the first time’ he recalls and mentions the thrill of passing through the infamous ‘Checkpoint Charlie’. These are memories that were perhaps suppressed by the years that followed—the politics that John rarely agreed with and the slow descent into Alzheimer’s. He describes the discipline of recording those final years as a valuable exercise that created a time when he could quietly remember his father.

Mapperton Moments records defining years in a relationship, but as John explains in the introduction, the writing process was also a means of working out what inheritance means ‘and the frustration it can involve.’ The book offers an insight into that quandary on many levels. The exasperation of dealing with the outside perception of chattels or political legacy, versus the reality that the day-to-day difficulties that life throws at everyone are painful and frustrating no matter where you are in society. To say that Mapperton Moments is a touching memoir may be doing it a disservice. It is so much more than that.

 

 

Mapperton Moments is available from bookshops or  from the Estate Office, Mapperton, Beaminster DT8 3NR, price £10 plus £2 p and p,  tel. 01308 862645.

UpFront 12/19

Waiting for a train at Waterloo station recently I felt sorry for one of the vendors standing alone at a stall waiting for customers. It was cold and he shifted from foot to foot to try to keep warm. He hadn’t even been supplied with a chair to sit on. The service he was promoting didn’t seem to be particularly attractive either. In fifteen minutes he had one customer who dropped something off and then rushed away with an air of great self-importance. A couple of promotional flags on either side of the man’s stall advertised the name of the business, but it was the letters FORO that stood out. They were explained by the words ‘Fear of Running Out’. The business offered the hire of portable changers for those that may need a constant telephone connection to the internet for business or other important stuff. One imagines it could also be of great assistance to those that suffer from ‘Nomophobia’, a condition brought on by ‘smartphone separation anxiety’. This is an affliction that could, of course, be exacerbated by the possibility of running out of phone battery. To me, FORO was a new abbreviation but I can imagine it has probably been around for a while. Like memes on social media, abbreviations for modern ailments keep cropping up, often followed by authoritative suggestions and research papers on how they could be dealt with. But ailments are just a tiny part of it. The upsurge in the popularity of text speak and abbreviations to express feelings is nothing new, it has been the subject of newspaper and magazine articles for years. In fact there are people who get paid to explain abbreviations so that businesses or institutional social media promoters can reach the right people. The abbreviations have to be current and cool, or at least not too dreadfully old fashioned. Now INE (I’m No Expert) but IMHO (In My Humble Opinion) it seems that this form of communication has already spawned a whole new language, which apart from the need for tuition, might give birth many other offshoots. This year I hope to add abbreviations to Christmas charades. ‘Book, film, play, song or… abbreviation!’ It will be fun to see whether this particular form of screen-based communication can be easily introduced into the RW (Real World). MCTA (Merry Christmas To All).

 

People at Work – Simon Land

Simon Land is up at the same time as the birds in the gardens he works in. 5.45am is the norm for him, as he likes to have time in the mornings to get on with emails, quotes and invoicing for his business, before leaving his house in Lopen by 7.45am. A one-man band, Simon set up Simon Land Gardens a few years ago after leaving the post of head gardener at Cricket St. Thomas. He now redesigns gardens as well as maintaining a number of them, many of which are open to the public each year. Very much at home in the outdoors, Simon enjoys the peace and quiet of his work and is content to work by himself.

After a day outside, Simon will often return home to carry on with some more paperwork. Then, not one to sit still for long, he might make it out to the local pub with friends, play some squash or a game of five a side football. But there is also a large part of Simon’s life that takes up a significant amount of his spare time, which he finds most rewarding of all. A volunteer with the local branch of Yeovil & Sherborne Samaritans, Simon is Head of Training. As well as helping initiate the new volunteers he also does a weekly shift ‘on the phones’. So, someone in need calling the Samaritans from anywhere in the UK, could have Simon answer the phone, ready to speak to them. He is there to listen, to support and hear whatever the caller wants to talk about. Finding it a positive thing to be able to do, Simon enjoys being able to make a difference. And he’s made numerous friends in the other volunteers at the branch, providing a welcome balance to his solitary workday.

Christmas Day is the one day each year that Simon does a double shift, one of many volunteering their time to be there for others. However, come the New Year, each year, Simon takes a break from it all and ventures up to Scotland, a place he loves for being so natural, rugged and rural. There, he will relax, do some walking, light a fire and listen to podcasts. He may even treat himself to a lie-in, 6.30am should do it.

Jim Goddard

I was born in April 1957 here on the farm, at Fairmile, beside the Old Sherborne Road. My father was drilling grass seed that day in a nearby field, in those days of course his presence only being required at the conception of his children. Dad, like me, was always a working farmer; he drove with the men, and there was a team of men working here then – Roy Dunford, Ralph Brown, Bert Yarde, Albert Fuller; and Arthur, who was so driven by economy that if he knew he was working with someone else the next day, he wouldn’t wind his pocket watch so it didn’t wear out so quick. Then as well as my mum and dad there was Uncle Jack, Uncle Farmer, and Auntie Girlie. There were cattle here then, about 70-80 beef animals, and before that there was a dairy which was sold in about 1955. During and after the war, like everybody else, they were encouraged to clear land to grow more crops, so a lot of that went on, which is why we now have big fields. My family’s been here since 1910, so my Dad was also born here at Forston. When he married, my mother was living in a cottage at Fairmile, the other side of the farm, almost the girl next door. None of the rest of Dad’s family, Uncles Jack and Farmer, or Auntie Girlie, married, so my brother and I were fortunate to have the farm passed to us when we were of age. So today we own 1111 acres, of which we crop 1066, both conveniently memorable numbers.

I grew up on the farm, and went to Charminster School at age 5. I hated school pretty much all the way through. Typically it was off with the uniform, overalls on, and “where’s Dad working?”, when I got home after school. Miss Diment taught me to read and write, which I thought was strange because she had also taught my mum to read and write, and how on earth could anyone be that old. Then I went to Dorchester Modern School, and later transferred to Hardye’s to do A levels, because by then the penny had dropped that I needed A levels to get into farming college. Armed with one A level I was able to get a place at Harper Adams college in Shropshire, as were my brother Alan and sister Lizzie in due course. I did an HND Agriculture there, and looking back they were 3 of the best years of my life, making friendships there that continue today. 6 of us still meet once a year, and have done every year since 1978. College gives you a good understanding of all aspects of farming, which helps you ask the right questions as things change over the years.

The farm had been kept going while we were at college, and when Alan, Lizzie and I took over, the introduction of new blood was quite a game-changer. Lizzie then married another farmer, Bernard Cox, and in later years Alan retired from farming, so for the last few years it’s been just Mum and I running it. Mum’s now in a care home, so I’m fortunate to have a very astute right-hand man, Rob Greatorex, but when I talk about the farm it’s always “we” because it’s very much a team effort, with my wife Sarah supporting me in every possible way, as well as the various technical and professional advisors we all rely on. Sarah’s had her own career as an educational psychologist.

I wasn’t allowed to go steaming until I was an old git of 40. I’d had a Mamod steam engine as many boys did, so I was hooked from an early age. Then from the age of about 11 we had motorbikes on the farm; BSA Bantams, Greeves, a BSA C15, a Mako, all an absolute riot, but we were never allowed one on the road. That seemed such a shame, and if you enjoy a motorbike it never leaves you, but it never happened. So I bought Gladstone, a 1910 Clayton and Shuttleworth traction engine, when I was 39 and 11 months. The first year was a learning process, but I wanted to experience refurbishing a steam engine, so on advice from the boiler inspector we installed a new set of tubes, which gave us another 10 years of steaming. By then it was time for more refurbishing, which turned out to be a new firebox, boiler barrel, back head, smoke box, chimney base, and hind axle, all of which took 2 years pull apart, have components manufactured, and reassemble. That was some of the hardest work I’ve ever done, but like a lot of things, if you knew what it was going to be like in advance, you wouldn’t do it. And in the process, I’ve met some of the most interesting people on the planet, taken Gladstone to many shows and fairs, including the Great Dorset Steam Fair several times, and to Ireland twice. The Irish boys sometimes come over here; their names all end in “ie”, so there’s Jimmie, Billie, Willie, etc, and in the pub with them it’s impossible to buy them a beer because just as you go to buy a round, another one’s thrust in your hand. These days I try not to leave the county, so lately we’ve been to Shillingstone, and steamed to West Bay via the Hardy Monument. We’ve also got a 1901 Marshall portable, a sawbench, a stone crusher, and a thrashing machine, and it’s all great fun, even, or especially, when things go wrong.

Sarah and I met in ’83; she was doing a shift at the Royal Oak, Cerne Abbas when I popped in for a beer, and it went from there. She was studying for her second degree at Swansea.  I visited her many times there on the Gower, which I thought was absolutely lovely, even more so because she was there, and we married in ’86. One of the few regrets in my life is not having built a big enough shed in which to store all the cars and motorbikes I’ve had and finished with. In it there would be the BSA C15, a 250cc Mako, a 3-litre Capri, a 2-litre Opel Manta in drug-dealer gold, and many others. But now I’ve got other cars, and all the steam stuff, and Sarah has her horses; she doesn’t know how much a ton of coal costs, and I’ve no idea what it costs to put 4 shoes on a horse, and we keep it that way.

We used to go windsurfing when we were fitter, which fitted quite well with farming. We could be on Overcome Corner rigging up on the beach 25 minutes after leaving the farm. It’s all much harder work now with traffic, parking, permits, etc. I tried kite surfing once, but thought I was going to die. It’s really hairy when it goes wrong, and I’ve been pulled under the water, then out again only just long enough cough up all the water I’d just swallowed before being pulled under again. I’ve seen people quite badly hurt, having been hoisted into the harbour wall or dumped in amongst the expensive properties on the seafront at Sandbanks. But the windsurfing was really fun. It had to be fast; you felt so alive, because of having successfully pitted your skills against wind, wave, and water, and it’s a good feeling to come home safe after a slightly risky pastime.

The joy in farming for me is seeing new crops emerge, with the sun behind them, no slugs eating the new rows, and all the tramlines in the right place, while you’re sat at the top of the hill in the tractor halfway through a Cadbury’s Creme Egg and a cup of coffee. But there are less people on farm today, so I talk too much because a lot of the time there’s no one to talk to. We’ve just bought a couple more fields and a wood, and nobody knows the name of one of the fields. I think it’s a niceness that all fields have names, many from hundreds of years ago. But the key to staying upbeat and fresh is to try to keep the hobbies up, and in that respect I’ve been fortunate. And to live and farm here in South Dorset is a privilege too. Sarah and I were lucky enough to go to Antigua for a holiday; many people said to me it must have been a version of paradise, and I thought it was all right, but it wasn’t Dorset.