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Caroline Collett

Ron Frampton met Caroline Collett at her home in Lyme Regis. This is Caroline’s story:

‘I was born in Bradford in 1962 and christened at Bradford Cathedral, where my parents had married six years before. My mother’s family can be traced back to Yorkshire’s West Riding – Keighley, Cononley, Haworth – as far back as the 16th century. As a girl, my great grandmother Hannah attended Spelling Bees in Haworth run by the Brontë sisters. My mum’s family were cabinetmakers, school teachers, lead mining engineers. There were artists too: my great uncle was the painter Percy Moore and my great great uncle was Sir Arthur Reginald Smith, the Yorkshire Dales watercolourist. My father’s family, the Hansons, were a Yorkshire family too, though presumably, given the name, of Danish or Viking origin at some point! My only West Country connection comes through my father’s side: my great grandmother Rose Milton was a fisherman’s daughter from Bristol. She married a policeman from Galway and they moved north in 1916.

Bradford’s great industry, the wool trade, played a big role in the life of both families. My father’s great uncles were mohair and alpaca merchants and my maternal grandfather sold worsted goods all over Scandinavia at the turn of the 20th century. My father worked in the wool trade too in the 50s, selling behind the Iron Curtain, before the whole industry collapsed.

When I was six months old we moved to Harrogate and I grew up in the same house my father still lives in now. I was a day-dreamy child and very close to my brother, never happier than playing together in the fields behind our house, weaving through the long grass, counting the rings on tree trunks, looking for frogspawn and newts in the ponds. I was a tomboy too and I loved football. I remember going to one primary school fancy dress party as George Best, a lone footballer in a sea of fairies and princesses!

I came out of myself a lot in adolescence and discovered boys and punk rock – and politics. I joined the Anti-Nazi League when I was 14 in protest at the rise of the National Front. I was then particularly involved in the anti-apartheid movement and in the Miners’ Strike in the early 80s, when I collected money and even picketed power stations. The crushing of that strike broke my heart politically and I was never as involved in politics again.

Academic life came fairly easily to me, especially languages and, when I was 18, I was awarded a scholarship to Oxford to read French and German. I loved the subjects and the buildings and liked my tutors well enough, but I found my co-students quite a dull lot on the whole. The one great exception was my future husband, whom I met there, although we had a long and winding road to travel before we found each other again seven years later!

After university I worked in publishing for a year before getting a lucky break and joining MTV’s press department just before the channel launched in Europe. The channel was run with a work hard, play hard ethos and I had a great time there, helping to plan the launch party and taking two private jet loads of pop stars to Amsterdam and back in one night! I remember sitting at Platform 7 at Victoria Station ticking off the register – Donny Osmond, Boy George – and thinking how surreal it all was.  I went on to write all of MTV’s hourly news bulletins for a while before deciding I wanted to present, which I did for the next couple of years on Channel 4’s Network 7, Motormouth on ITV and The Rough Guide to Careers on BBC2. I enjoyed it all but really I was happier behind the camera in my next job, as a producer/director on BSB’s daily Film Show. I went to all the film festivals – Cannes, Deauville, Berlin – and interviewed many great actors and directors – Martin Sheen, Donald Sutherland, Antony Hopkins, John Hurt, Martin Scorcese, Sidney Lumet. I even met my all-time idol, Lauren Bacall, who was everything she should have been!

The dream job came to an end with redundancy when Rupert Murdoch bought BSB and merged it with Sky. After a spell recruiting celebrities for charity, I went back into PR and ended up as Communications Director of global design company Fitch in 1992. I got married the following year and our two sons, Mark and Harry, were born in ‘95 and ‘98. By that time I had formed my own company as a specialist publicist for creative companies, particularly designers and architects. I have a great bunch of clients now, including the UK’s leading product designers Seymourpowell, who designed the world’s first hydrogen fuel cell motorcycle, the world’s first cordless kettle way back when, and who are now working with Virgin Galactic on the world’s first tourist spacecraft!

We moved to Lyme from London in 2002 and we love our life here. My mother suggested we come on holiday here when our second son was born and we just fell in love with it there and then. My mum died last year and I love to think she chose Lyme Regis for us somehow. Our boys have settled so well here – one is at Mrs Ethelston’s in Uplyme and the other has just started at Colyton Grammar School. We love the quiet and being near the sea and we’ve definitely become more eco-conscious since we moved here – we recycle, buy organic meat and have organic veg delivered every week! It’s a good life. Dorset people have a nice dry humour, like Yorkshire folk, and it’s wonderful to be connected to nature again. I feel to have come full circle.’

Up Front 12/06

It’s a rare day when we don’t hear someone complaining about excessive bureaucracy, red tape, rules and regulations or health and safety measures. However some safety measures are complex. For instance every electrical appliance has to have a ‘CE’ label. An abbreviation for ‘Communauté Européenne’, this means that the appliance has satisfied the statutory requirements of the European Union. Additional safety certifications are the ‘GS’ label in Germany and the ‘UL’ standard of the Underwriter Laboratories in the USA. These various seals of approval pose a real challenge to development engineers. Before an iron, for instance, can be put on the market, the manufacturer has to carry out extensive tests: “Every prototype has to survive a fall from a height of one meter onto a slab of wood in the laboratory without compromising the safety of the appliance,” states André Heinrietz of the Fraunhofer Institute for Structural Durability and System Reliability LBF in Germany. A prototype has to be built and then, whenever an appliance failed the drop test, expensive modifications had to be made to the highly complex die-casting mould. In a joint project with a manufacturer of household appliances, research scientists have developed a simulation model that enables this drop test to be carried out at the planning stage – long before the first prototype has been built. Wouldn’t it be good if this type of safety test could be carried out on some of our politicians?

Hugh Clark MC

Penny Johnstone met Hugh Clark MC, at his home in Crewkerne.  This is Hugh’s story:

‘Fourth of five boys, I was born in 1923 in Chingford, Essex, as was Mary, my wife. However, her grandfather had a tailoring business in Crewkerne and both her grandparents and great-grandparents are buried there. We moved down when I retired in 1987.

My parents were Christian Brethren who are probably the most non-conformist of the non-conformist churches. At the church we attended, they had a special mission for children that involved a lanternslide show illustrating the story of Pilgrim’s Progress. Its horror pictures would be censored now, but the fright, more than anything, was what really led to my conversion at the early age of ten.

When the war started I was still at school so I didn’t think it would really affect me. But when I was nearly 18, I realised that people were being called up and a certain number were being sent to the coalmines. That filled me with horror so I began to think about volunteering. At the time I was working in my father’s plastics factory. Their main line was combs, but their involvement in war work and experimentation led to them becoming pioneers in squeezy bottles. When I told my manager I was joining the army he said: “You can’t do that, these are reserved works”, but my reply was “You try and stop me.”

I settled on the Royal Artillery as being not so bad: you had transport, you weren’t right up at the front and best of all, with the right exam results you could go in with a view to a commission and spend the first six months at university before training. Ironically I ended up in the Infantry and was posted to a glider-borne battalion. Kings College, Newcastle, turned out to be rather irrelevant, but I achieved matriculation, so had something to put on my CV. I was commissioned into the RA on 4th July, 1943.

As a Christian I think killing is wrong, but I don’t look upon war as murder. As information gradually came out about the horrors going on in Germany, I realised we had to put a stop to it.  I think being an officer in action was easier than being a private soldier; you didn’t have time to think about yourself. In March 1945, my battalion in 6th Airborne Division, took part in the landing, east of the river Rhine with the brief of taking a bridge over the Issel. I was responsible for the lives of 28 men in a life and death situation and although only 21, matured very quickly. It was only after the war that the nightmares started.

Looking back at the incident that earned me the Military Cross – blowing up the bridge – when we had fixed bayonets and were charging, with no idea what we might meet in the pitch dark. I think in those circumstances you just accept responsibility, take command and make the decisions necessary.

Palestine, where I was posted later, was difficult.  It was a very volatile time, peacekeeping between Jews and Arabs, liked by neither. Jewish refugees from war-torn Europe were allowed in on a quota basis, but many arrived illegally in small, overcrowded boats, enduring terrible hardship. We had the unpleasant job of trying to round them up for detention, which involved searching villages and houses, tearing up floorboards and looking in cupboards. I was relieved when in March 1947 I returned home to be demobbed, but while in Palestine I had the opportunity to visit many places of biblical interest and was baptised as a Christian in Jersusalem.

Adjustment was hard: one day you were a captain in the army with authority and the next you were in civilian clothes and just a nobody. The Ministry of Labour offered me a three-month business-training course, but I was now married with less money to live on than I’d been paid in the army.

Eventually I got a job with a firm of flour-millers, Heygates of Northampton. I was with them for twenty years and during this time became a Crusader leader, running a boys’ bible class, rewarding work that lasted thirty years.

Soon after moving to Crewkerne, we responded to the Civic Society’s request for volunteers to set up a museum. Within three years Mary was chairman of the committee and I was secretary.  We set it up in 1987, but had to find new premises after five years. People thought we were mad; when we found the present building in Market Square, it was all boarded up. There were rooms upstairs where you had to walk the plank because the floor had caved in.  In the back part the main beams had rotted through. Luckily the Lottery came along and we managed to get a grant of £408,000. After everyone’s hard work we were delighted when Princess Anne agreed to open the new museum in 2000.

We are no longer involved, but Mary was awarded an MBE for her efforts. We’ve made no end of friends down here and are active members of St Bartholomew’s Parish Church.

Our four children have all done well for themselves and we now have 11 grandchildren and four great-grandchildren. Crewkerne is lovely, retirement has been really good and in many ways it has been the happiest part of our 61 years of marriage.’

Up Front 11/06

A new campaign launched by students at Queen’s University offers a whole new slant to keeping the peace on the streets of Belfast. The SSHH! campaign, which stands for Silent Students Happy Homes, is aimed at encouraging students to reduce late night noise levels. It’s the latest in a series of initiatives aimed at promoting good relations in the University area of Belfast and the campaign will see a team of ‘Professional SSHHers’ promoting the key messages of: Keep Noise Levels Down at Night; Meet, Greet and Respect Your Community and Keep Your Street Litter Free. Sporting instantly recognisable SSHH! t-shirts, the SSHHers will be embarking on a series of novel promotional activities aimed at encouraging students to get on board with the campaign including a photographic ‘Strike a SSHH! Pose’ competition at the forthcoming Halloween Ball in the Students’ Union, the distribution of lollipops at the end of each evening’s entertainment and SSHH! Door Hangers. Michael Forde, Vice-President, Education, at Queen’s Students’ Union explained that the campaign is ‘fun with a serious message’. He went on to say: ‘We will also be offering our fellow students simple steps on how to help reduce noise late at night such as walking in smaller groups.’ Student life’s a blast isn’t it?

Up Front 10/06

Last week I spent a few days in New York to visit a small exhibition. The city that never sleeps, already a hive of activity, was extra busy as it was playing host to a United Nations General Assembly. Visiting dignitaries clogged the streets with their cavalcades while New York City traffic cops waited for last minute instructions on which roads to close at any given time – traffic was chaos. Throughout the week delegates gave their views on a number of subjects, Iran, Iraq, the African continent, Asia, and all the time the streets of New York were overflowing with large vehicles with blackened windows. The place was also crawling with security service personnel from countries all over the world. At one point while I waited in a hotel lobby for friends, no less than eight dark-suited men sporting trendy covert earpieces and regulation dark glasses, appeared from nowhere to shadow an African gentleman, who emerged from a lift already crammed full of minders. As they slowly fell into line around him, each solemnly said ‘Good Morning Sir’, with a reverence that appeared well beyond necessity. Here was yet another politician living in a complete cocoon, where yes men cow-tow and the world outside is glimpsed through burly shoulders and darkened windows. How difficult it must be to debate the state of the world, when for security reasons, you can no longer be part of it.

Sir Dan Donnelly

Flying arms into America is not a recommended activity, but when Fergus Byrne took a personal journey involving a Heavyweight Boxing Champion, a little grave robbing and a possible knighthood, arming a small New York Arts Centre made sense.

 

A nearly 8,000 mile round-trip to attend a private view in a small Arts Centre in New York may seem excessive to some, but to me, travelling to New York to view the mummified arm of a 19th century pugilist was more than just following a wacky story.
The right arm of ‘Sir’ Dan Donnelly, a famous Irish bare-fisted boxer, who died in 1820, has been a feature in my family since it arrived at our home in 1953 – in fact it has featured in the family even longer than I have!
A gruesome sport to many, the art of boxing is something that has gripped the imagination of young boys for centuries. ‘Heavyweight champion of the world’ we would cry – little boys imitating the antics of Muhammad Ali. More than a hundred years before Ali, young lads had cheered heroes like Tom Cribb, George Cooper and Tom Hall, who fought vicious battles before the Marquis of Queensbery rules took the knuckle out of the sport. Prior to that, as young Dan Donnelly was avoiding school, hard men fought under the Broughton rules, which did not forbid head butting, eye gouging, hair pulling or wrestling. In fact it was Jack Broughton who invented the boxing glove, though it was only for use in sparring and exhibitions. For the real thing, the gloves came off.
Like many stories from the era, the tale of Dan Donnelly has likely been slightly embellished in the telling over the years, and is perhaps all the better for that. Born the ninth child of a family of seventeen, including four sets of twins, Dan was by all accounts a sturdy child who survived in a time when many didn’t. Little is known of his youth, although the inevitable stories of his humility, bravery and care for others, help to create the image of a lad any mother could be proud of. One story tells of how, after coming to the rescue of a young girl being attacked, he was so badly beaten that a surgeon suggested his arm would have to be amputated. Thankfully, Dr Abraham Colles, later to give his name to the Colles Fracture, was to save Donnelly’s arm and make this story possible.
Several versions of how Donnelly’s prowess in the ring was discovered have been written down over the years, but the favoured account is that he came to the aid of his elderly father who was being bullied by a giant sailor in a bar. Apparently word spread of his bravery and a local champion, jealous of his reputation, threw down a challenge, which Donnelly reluctantly accepted. He dispensed with the challenger in the 16th round and found himself the subject of much admiration. He was taken on by a trainer and manager, one of whom was Robert Barclay Allardice, a personal friend of William Pitt ‘the Younger’ and Earl of Monteith and Airth. Donnelly was taught the rudiments of bare-fisted fighting and groomed for a bout with prominent English pugilist Tom Hall. On September 14th, 1814, an estimated twenty-thousand people gathered in a natural amphitheatre in the Curragh in County Kildare, Ireland, to watch the bout. Donnelly defeated Hall and the location was later named ‘Donnelly’s Hollow’.
Fifteen months later, Donnelly was to fight the Staffordshire ‘Bargeman’, George Cooper, at the same spot. Known as a courageous, ‘first-rate ringman’, Cooper gave Donnelly and his fans plenty of cause for concern, as a hard fought battle lasted until the 11th round when Donnelly felled Cooper and broke his jaw. As Donnelly left the ring and strode up to the edge of the Hollow there were scenes of incredible jubilation. Borne on the shoulders of his fans, as his mother led a procession of cheering crowds back to his home that evening, it is said that she frequently slapped her naked bosom exclaiming “That’s the breast that suckled him; that’s the breast that suckled him!” What greater pride could a mother show?! To this day the holes dug to mark his footsteps where he strode to the top of ‘Donnelly’s Hollow’ are gleefully walked in by picnicking families on the Curragh plains.
Like many that have tasted fame, Donnelly fell victim to what is known as, the ‘demon drink’. His attempts to retire and run a pub led to increasing debts, and he left his family to raise money through exhibition bouts. He had one more ‘famous’ battle to complete, however, before finally retiring. On July 21st, 1819, Donnelly battled with ‘The Battersea Gardener’, Tom Oliver, at Crawley Downs in Sussex. Eventually winning with a dramatic right hand in the 34th round, legend has it that he was subsequently knighted by the Prince Regent (later King George IV).
‘Sir’ Dan Donnelly died the following year at the age of 32. Obituaries and comment flowed poetically throughout Britain, and, though he died penniless, funds were raised from public donations to create a memorial to him. Ironically his corpse was worth more then he was. Six days after his death, his grave was robbed and the body sold to a surgeon. Following a public outcry the surgeon returned the body – minus the famous right arm. It was coated with preservative and used by students in Edinburgh University for many years, before touring Britain in a travelling circus. In 1953 it was presented to my father and took pride of place in the family pub. Throughout my life thousands of people came to see it, and when my late brother Des sold the business ten years ago, he hoped to take the arm on tour again one day. Sadly, he died before that wish came true, and last month the arm was brought to America to be exhibited in, ‘A Celebration of the Celtic Warrior’.
Eleven members of my family made the journey to New York to represent my brother, and ‘Sir’ Dan, and of the many tributes I read, one seemed most poignant. It was spoken, with tears in his eyes, by Donnelly’s close friend Richard Dowden on March 22nd, 1820: “He, who but a few short days ago was the glory of our land; he, whose intellectual and corporal energies were the theme of every tongue; he, who basked in all the sunshine of prosperity; he, who in all the pride of conscious dignity stood on the loftiest pinnacle of fame and honour; he, whose virtues were as the refreshing dews of Heaven; he – is gone!”
But the arm lives on…

Emma Molony

Julia Mear met Emma Molony, aged 28, in the East Devon fishing village of Beer. This is Emma’s story:

‘My grandparents lived in Fishpond in the Marshwood Vale where my dad, Rowland Molony, worked on local farms during the holidays. His father, Marcus, met my Dutch grandmother in Holland during World War II while he was a Wing Commander in the Royal Air Force.

My mum, Elizabeth Baxendale, was an Art teacher in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe when she met my dad. He’d just finished training as an English teacher and sailed out to Cape Town on an adventure with two friends, in 1975. They drove up to Bulawayo and he was teaching there when he met my mum. They were married within three months.

Susie, my sister, and I were born in Zimbabwe, but as life became increasingly difficult and dangerous in the 1980s, my dad decided we needed to move to England. He came over three months before us to look for work and somewhere to live. He came to the West Country, a place he loved; he found a winter let in Beer, and a job teaching English at Sidmouth College.

It was painful for mum’s family in Africa to see us go. The Baxendales had settled in Zimbabwe in 1896. They’d put down roots, never returning to their birth country. My great grandfather Walter, from Lancaster, started a mineral water factory in Bulawayo, and my grandfather Oliver who, when orphaned was brought up in Wiltshire, returned and opened a bookshop and printing works there. Evocative memories of Africa for me are linked to smells, dust, jasmine and warm milk at school.

One of the most exciting parts of finding myself in this fishing village, aged 6, was living in a house with a staircase. Also, the really steep hills, the salty sea air, and waking to the sound of seagulls – it was like nothing I’d ever experienced. My English grandparents had always sent us very ‘English’ cards with snow-covered village scenes and carol singers, and here we were, living in a little English village, being angels in the nativity play and carol singing. Even Father Christmas seemed more real. The best thing was knowing I wouldn’t have to go to boarding school, and there would be no more snakes.

We wrote to our gran in Zimbabwe about how it always rained on Mondays in England and that she needed to bring lots and lots of jumpers when she visited.

Growing up in Beer meant we didn’t need to go abroad much. We spent long summers on the beach, and of course there was Beer Regatta. It was great being a teenager in East Devon, often visiting old ramshackly pubs where friends’ bands would play. I enjoyed going to Colyton Grammar School for the chance it gave you to meet people from all over the area.

Afterwards, I went to study Art History at Leeds University for three years. Then I wanted to move abroad but couldn’t afford to travel. I found a paid Internship at The Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice – a collection of modernist art in the eccentric American collector’s old palazzo – kept much as it was when she lived there. I worked for three months, giving tours, talks, guarding, stewarding and just getting a feel of working in a small art collection.

I wanted to remain in Venice, so I supported myself with a variety of jobs; one of my favourite was painting the faces of visitors at the Carnevale. Then over the summers I worked at the Venice Biennale with contemporary British artists and architects; sometimes I had to transport their work on unstable boats through the canals.

I loved the gondoliers; they are kings of their world. I learned voga alla veneta – upright rowing – and tried their gondolas, but they are so light it’s incredibly difficult to steer them.

The day came when I had to choose whether I was going to stay forever in Venice or come home. On Christmas Eve 2003 I left Venice and moved back to Beer. Coming back to an English Christmas made it much easier to leave. This was the first time I’d be living in the village as an adult, and what started out as three weeks turned into three years.

I wanted to work in community arts, so I did various voluntary jobs and started a printmaking course at Double Elephant Print Workshop in Exeter – I’m now one of the five voluntary directors. We do printmaking using etching and screenprinting techniques with vulnerable groups: adults with mental health issues, the rurally isolated elderly and children excluded from school. We also run a portable printmaking workshop that we take to schools, museums and galleries. As outreach coordinator, I fundraise and manage these projects.

I’m looking forward to working as artist in residence at Michael Morpurgo’s Farm for City Children in West Devon this month. Nethercott Farm works with an artist each term to explore experiences of farm life. For lots of the children it will be their first time in the countryside.

I never anticipated staying this long in Devon. I keep discovering more to things: the local festivals, nettle-eating competitions, pub gigs, Beer festivals and Regattas. We have great parties with local bands on friends’ farms and in village halls. Although a lot of my friends who grew up here now live elsewhere, there’s always someone home each weekend, and increasingly they are moving back here. I think we have strong friendships because we all have a strong connection with this unique part of the West Country. It’s as if there are lots of things unspoken between us, things that we all appreciate about these valleys.’

Sir David Attenborough – A Future for our Planet

Sir David Attenborough talks to Fergus Byrne

There are few people that haven’t at some point in their lives been captivated by David Attenborough’s engaging descriptions of the various living organisms on our planet. Now known as Sir David, after his knighthood in 1995, his career has taken him to far-flung corners of the planet, in search of the natural wonders of our living world. In his life, he has seen half a million flamingos feeding at dawn on a lake in Africa; he has watched herds of elephant making their way silently through the forest; he has visited the Australian Great Barrier Reef and the American Grand Canyon and has studied the spectacular and glamorous Birds of Paradise as they flaunted their plumes in New Guinea. He is currently filming a series about reptiles and amphibians for the BBC and will visit exotic locations in Australia, South Africa and Madagascar over the next few months – but not before taking time out to visit Dorset. In September he will officially open the Jurassic Coast gallery at the Dorset County Museum in Dorchester.

Thanks to a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund, the existing Geology gallery has been completely transformed to offer an educational focal point for all visitors to the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site. The gallery charts the full 95 miles of coastline from Exmouth in Devon to Old Harry Rocks in Dorset. A fascinating geological story is delivered through touch, sound, text, and interactive displays, and at levels to suit all ages and all abilities.

Sir David is no stranger to the Jurassic Coast and before talking about the dangers posed by man to our environment, he spoke of the dangers posed by nature to man when it comes to fossil collecting. “Like hundreds of thousands of other people I have relished collecting those ammonites,” he told me. “But these cliffs are very unstable. If you are picking up stuff from rocks and boulders at the foot of the cliff you can’t do any harm. These cliffs are under attack by the waves more than by the fossil collectors, there are a lot of cliff falls.”

This year Sir David celebrated his 80th birthday filming giant tortoises on the Galapagos Islands. His more than 50 years in broadcasting have taken him to remote and wild places, where his knowledge and passion for the living world has helped him create programmes and books that show us the colourful, vibrant and intriguing world that we share with so many living things. He has shown us a world of extraordinary diversity and beauty, a world of innovation and adaptation, where natural survival instinct communes with seasonal change, and the natural order of animal hierarchy battles for living space in a rapidly changing world. Through his eyes, we have seen the daily battles of so many creatures as they try to survive their natural enemies.

It is a world however that is under threat from one incredibly powerful creature. While Sir David has been able to bring us some of the more spectacular images from around the natural world, he is acutely aware of the spectacular and unnatural disaster that man is bringing to the planet. Uniquely placed to observe changes in our planet, he says we all must become aware of environmental damage. He told me, “The notion that we, all of us have to take on board and that we have to recognise, is, that every carbon-dioxide molecule that we have produced, either breathing, or burning petrol or fuel or whatever, goes up there and adds to the blanket around the world, and it will stay up there for a hundred years. And the fire I sat by 75 years ago – the carbon dioxide produced then is still up there. So even if the world became marvellously conscientious and stopped breathing carbon dioxide or burning fuel we would still be in a position where temperatures would rise. So to some extent, we can’t stop it – all we can do is ameliorate it. But we ought to reduce the rate of increase. We are not going to be able to return to levels of fifty years ago.”

Sir David shares the concern that many are turning a blind eye to the effects of global warming, in fact, there are still those that refuse to believe it exists. “If one really took seriously how you convert sunshine into power, and we are going towards that, solar power is becoming a real possibility,” he said. “That’s going to be a huge improvement. The problem at the moment is that people don’t even believe it. I mean I’ve just been in Tucson, Arizona where temperatures have been 110 degrees. And there’s this town absolutely roasting, and not a solar panel in the place!”

In our little corner of the world, we are fortunate to have a community that is steeped in culture and living history. Thanks to the vision of people like Professor Denys Brunsden, our coastline is now recognised as one of the many wonders of the natural world. Thousands of visitors will come to explore the rocks and boulders and many will hope to take home a prize that represents a piece of the history of life on earth. Sir David Attenborough, like many others, can only hope that our generation and those to follow us will find some way to ensure a future for our planet. If we are unable to somehow reverse or repair the persistent environmental damage that we inflict, we may one day become the very relics that our visitors so cherish.

Val Bailey

Penny Johnstone met Val Bailey at his home in Lower Holditch. This is Val’s story:

‘Born into a fourth generation army family in Edinburgh, I was destined for Wellington, Sandhurst and the Black Watch.  My destiny changed dramatically when, at 13, I decided I’d prefer to go into the Royal Navy.  I knew nothing about it and the only warship I had seen was from my prep school at Seaford overlooking Beachy Head in Sussex.  However, I was rushed through the system and sent to Dartmouth Naval College in 1933.

My father lost all his money around this time – he had it in a private bank that went bust – and became a courier for Sir Arnold Lunn, who really started package tours.  School holidays were wonderful; I used to join him wherever he was in Europe. If I wasn’t with him I spent time with my mother and stepfather, going to amazing parties; their friends were racing drivers and pilots so I had a lovely time driving around in Barnarto’s Bentleys and Kindersley’s aeroplanes!

Dartmouth was exactly like a public school, but just a bit harsher I think. I was physically beaten regularly, but never resented it. It was part of a disciplinary system that doesn’t exist any more but there was a reason for it: if you were dealing in ships, there were damn great bits of rope and wire hanging around and you had to be constantly alert and to have what we called the seaman’s eye. The whole time you were scanning, so as not to miss the man overboard, funnel falling down and so on.

When I passed out from Dartmouth at 17, I took part in the Coronation Fleet review with about a thousand ships in the Solent, before being posted to the West Indies. Then followed blockade patrol for the Spanish Civil war and two years as midshipman in a cruiser on the South Africa station. That was a very glamorous life: lots of hospitality on board, flags on the quarter deck, bands playing and so on. I still love Sinatra and big band music, which I think of as part of my life.

Then it was back to England, and as a 19 year old, when war broke, I set off for the Mediterranean in a destroyer. We were one of the escorts to the aircraft carrier Ark Royal at Mers el Kébir, and saw action at Oran. At last we were doing what we had been trained for. The camaraderie was terrific: you made friends and experienced things you can’t replace by going across the North Sea in a little boat, or climbing Everest. We didn’t think in terms of challenges; you just woke up in the morning and wondered what would happen that day.

I volunteered to fly, trained in England, and joined Ark Royal in 1941, flying Fairey Fulmars.  They were fine at the time, but they could only do 247 knots vertically downwards so were no match for the Japanese Zeros.  The Ark sank when I had been on her for about three months. We were torpedoed at twenty to four in the afternoon and didn’t sink until ten to six in the morning. So she just filled and slowly rolled over. I was the last chap off. The ship was horizontal, so we just walked into the water and off we paddled into the night’s ocean. It was a moving moment.

After the war I was grounded because I got vertigo and lost my physical balance. I married June, my wife, and we had two and a half lovely years in Washington DC, where our daughters were born. I then served at the Admiralty and in Argentina, (where as a naval officer I was privileged to indulge my passion for polo relatively cheaply) before my final posting as the Commodore of the barracks in Plymouth.

I left the navy in 1968, and with June’s wholehearted support bought Lower Holditch farm with 50 acres, for our first foray into farming. The Earl of Devon’s farm manager, to whom I was introduced, was breeding South Devon cows on the same acreage and after talking to him I decided to follow suit. So I found myself overnight – with the wonderful Fred Beeching as stockman, who, with his wife, used to tolerate my lack of knowledge with smiles – wrestling with damn great animals. The shock and actual physical hard work, including pulling calves out of cows and building the farm unit, were followed by the pride and satisfaction of establishing a new life.

It was a great transition, and a marvellous way of changing completely from never having got my hands dirty except on a bridle. I was very much the apprentice, with all the farmers longing to tell me how to do it, and I’ve never regretted my decision. My first and continuing impressions of those times and subsequent years were the kindness of my neighbours and the help they all gave to an interloper. My farming was made possible first by the patience of one of these neighbours, Jack Turner, subsequently by his son Leslie, and if I last that long, by Andrew, the third generation.

It is hard to overestimate the pleasure of good neighbours and the satisfaction of knowing that after a lifetime of travelling the world, Lower Holditch in England’s West Country is the best place to live.  My house is 500 years old and I love the fact that when I look out of the window, although the glass has changed, I am looking through the same hole in the same wall that generations of farmers have looked through.’

Up Front 09/06

As a self-confessed non petrol-head, my visit to this year’s International Motor Show in London was quite an experience. While the crowds vied to catch a glimpse of the latest innovations, smartly dressed ‘car cleaning technicians’ were kept busy polishing and re-polishing muscle machines, while scantily clad models obligingly draped themselves across shiny bonnets for an eager posse of press photographers. As excited boy-racers examined gleaming hunks of metal, the talk was nought to sixty, fuel injection, twin-turbo and torque. I was in search of transport that could offer an environmentally friendly option – more air-head than petrol-head. Amongst the major manufacturers there was little evidence of any effort to curb the world’s need for oil but notable exceptions included Ford and most surprisingly SAAB. The Swedish motor manufacturer, now part of the American GM group, has been having a great impact on car buyers with the SAAB 9-5 BioPower. In fact the bioethanol version represents 80% of sales in the model. For anyone interested in a more environmental world that is a heart-warming statistic. Indeed Sweden can currently lay claim to perhaps the world’s most ambitious stance, planning to be oil free by 2020. It’s an admirable plan and one that could be attempted by any developed country.